When two watchmaking giants share the same stage, choosing between them becomes a delicate choice. The green version of the legendary Rolex Submariner is a unique interpretation of the same iconic DNA. The Hulk with its Rising Sun-printed green dial and bezel is a bold statement, a far cry from the traditional diver’s watch. The Starbucks, by contrast, is more versatile, with a classic black dial and a rich green bezel, balancing individuality with timeless appeal.
Historical background: the green evolution of the Rolex diver’s watch
The introduction of the green-themed Submariner collection marks a significant milestone in the history of Rolex Submariner watches. While Rolex is renowned for its craftsmanship, these emerald green variants are a bold break from tradition. The introduction of green to the traditionally monochromatic Submariner watch collection demonstrates Rolex’s determination to innovate while retaining the collection’s legendary core DNA.
Rolex Submariner “Hulk” (Ref. 116610LV)
First unveiled in 2010, the Rolex Hulk brought an unprecedented concept of monochromatic green to the Submariner collection. With its striking green sunburst dial and matching ceramic bezel, the Hulk is instantly reminiscent of the comic book character of the same name. The 40 mm case retains the robust dimensions expected of a professional diver’s watch, but breaks away from Rolex’s previous conventions and reveals an even more expressive territory.
During its decade-long production cycle, the Hulk amassed an avid following among collectors who appreciated its unique character. When Rolex discontinued the Hulk in 2020, it immediately went from being a watch still in production to a highly sought-after collector’s item, marking the end of the era of Submariner-type watch design.
Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” (Ref. 126610LV)
Launched in 2020, the Rolex Starbucks is part of Rolex’s newly upgraded Submariner collection. The 41 mm case is slightly larger in size and paired with refined proportions to enhance wearer comfort, carrying on the model’s classic heritage.
The combination of black and green, reminiscent of the iconic colors of the famous coffee chain, has won over watch enthusiasts. This contemporary timepiece embodies Rolex’s philosophy of innovation: a restrained aesthetic evolution underpinning technological progress while respecting the collection’s established design codes.
Design and Aesthetics: Two Interpretations of Luxury
Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk”
Beyond the color differences on the face, these two watches embody unique design concepts. The Hulk and Starbuck embody Rolex’s evolving design philosophy for luxury sports watches, exploring contrasts in color, proportion and visual effects. One boldly challenges the traditional Submariner aesthetic, while the other seeks to strike a balance between innovation and tradition through a subtle use of color.
Dial and Bezel
The Hulk Hulk’s green sunburst dial creates a dynamic visual experience that changes hue depending on the light conditions. This captivating effect gives the watch a chameleon-like appeal that is rare in the traditionally conservative Submariner collection. The matching green bezel completes the overall look, eschewing understated luxury.
The Starbucks has a more restrained design, with a traditional black dial with classic Mercedes hands and luminescent hour markers. This classic configuration is elegantly contrasted by the rich green ceramic bezel, making it versatile and easily adaptable to a wide range of occasions, from the boardroom to the beach. This design pays homage to the heritage of the Submariner collection while fittingly incorporating a different color than the standard model.
Case and Bracelet
The Hulk represents the pinnacle of Rolex’s more robust case construction since the 2010s. It features what collectors commonly refer to as Rolex’s “Super Case” design:
- Angled lugs, wider shoulders
- Multiple crown protectors
- Wearable on the wrist despite 40 mm diameter
- Familiar Oyster bracelet with strong links and secure clasp
These design elements give the Hulk a strong presence that perfectly complements its bold green aesthetic and reinforces its apt moniker.
Starbucks shows the evolution of Rolex’s design philosophy in more refined proportions. It introduces the following sophisticated architectural styles:
- Tapered lugs create smooth case lines
- 41 mm diameter, more comfortable to wear than its predecessor
- Slightly narrower crown guard improves balance
- Same as the tried-and-true Oyster bracelet, but with slightly adjusted proportions
Despite the slight increase in size, these improvements create a more elegant silhouette that many enthusiasts find provides better long-term comfort.
Technical Specifications: Evolution in Action
These watches represent different eras of Rolex engineering, with significant advances between models that have had a profound impact on both performance and the wearing experience. The decade between the Hulk and Starbucks witnessed remarkable advances in watchmaking technology. While the aesthetic differences are striking, the technical evolution behind them is equally fascinating and tells the story of Rolex’s quest for watchmaking excellence.
Movement
The Hulk is powered by the Rolex automatic caliber 3135, which has powered the Submariner line for nearly three decades. With a 48-hour power reserve and proven construction, the 3135 is impressively reliable and embodies Rolex’s philosophy of continuous improvement throughout the production process.
The Starbucks is powered by the new generation of Caliber 3235 with its proprietary Chronergy escapement and 70-hour power reserve. This significant upgrade means that the watch will keep running throughout the weekend, even when not worn on the wrist, a practical advantage for collectors who change their watches frequently. the 3235 caliber is also more anti-magnetic, and its optimized design enhances the watch’s precision.
Technical Features
The core functions of both watches remain the same, continuing the reliable performance of the Submariner model in demanding environments. Both timepieces carry on the specialized specifications of the Submariner model, including:
- Water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 feet)
- Unidirectional rotating chronograph bezel
- Triple-locking crown system enhances water-resistance
- Glidelock extension system allows tool-free adjustment of 20 mm
- Chromalight luminescent material for excellent low-light readability
Starbucks has taken advantage of the latest technological advances from Rolex to enhance performance beyond these common specifications. It has made several improvements on top of that:
- Chronergy escapement improves winding efficiency
- Enhanced anti-magnetic properties
- Rolex improves timekeeping accuracy by -2/+2 seconds per day
- Subtle ergonomic improvements to crown and bracelet
Pricing and Market Position
The financial performance of these watches reveals the depth of the evolution of the Rolex market and the driving forces that have propelled its value beyond retail prices. The performance of the secondary market demonstrates the complex interplay between supply, demand, design exclusivity and technical innovation. The amazing price movement of the Hulk collection compared to the Starbucks collection perfectly illustrates how discontinued and unique design elements can create extraordinary market phenomena.
Retail and Market Dynamics
The Hulk originally launched with a retail price of about $9,050, while Starbucks’ current suggested retail price is about $10,900. However, these retail prices are only part of the story. The discontinued Hulk is currently selling on the secondary market for between $18,000 and $25,000, a 100% to 200% increase over the original price.
Starbucks commands a smaller premium on the secondary market, around $13,000 to $16,000. This difference reflects a fundamental reality of collecting: discontinued models with unique features are usually more valuable than current models in terms of market appreciation.